117 episódios
#132 - Climb Harder Through Self-Mastery: 9 Lessons for Better Training & Performance
18/08/2026 | 37minWhat if the biggest thing holding back your climbing isn't finger strength, power endurance, body weight, age—or finding the perfect training program? What if the real limiter is much simpler: you're not consistently doing the things you already know you should be doing?
In this new episode of the Training for Climbing Podcast, I dig into 9 powerful principles for behavior modification and self-mastery—and how they can help you train more consistently, improve your nutrition, manage your time, recover better, and become a stronger, more disciplined climber. We'll explore everything from questioning the stories you tell yourself and building an athlete identity, to embracing invisible progress, keeping promises to yourself, and making decisions based on principles rather than emotions.
Because long-term success isn't about being perfectly motivated or discovering some secret training hack. It's about controlling the controllables, showing up, learning from failure, and repeatedly doing the small things that move you toward the athlete you want to become. If you want to climb harder—and become better at the game of life along the way—give this episode a listen. 🎧💪🧗
The 9 Lessons for Self-Mastery:
(2:30) 1. Question the story you keep telling yourself.
(5:46) 2. You don't have to believe everything you think.
(9:06) 3. Stop chasing goals—build the identity that achieves them.
(12:30) 4. Small behaviors compound.
(19:25) 5. Learn to love invisible progress.
(22:28) 6. Use your past as data, not identity.
(24:45) 7. Discipline means keeping promises to yourself.
(27:07) 8. Let principles make decisions before emotions arrive.
(29:19) 9. Control the controllables.
(31:20) - Three important questions for you to answer today!
The big takeaway: long-term climbing success isn't built on perfect motivation or heroic workouts. It comes from repeatedly making good decisions, learning from failure, protecting your health, showing up, and gradually becoming the athlete capable of achieving your goals. Let's go!
Learn more on this topic. Listen to T4C podcast #124 - Possibility Thinking: 15 Concepts That Changed My Life >>
Please leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts or Spotify, and share this episode with a climbing partner or friend!
Podcast Sponsors
Thank you to La Sportiva, PhysiVantage Nutrition, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes!
Save 10% off a new BlueWater Rope with checkout code: ERIC_CLINIC
Save on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with code: PODCAST15 (North America only)
European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com.
Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx
Connect with Eric Hörst
📬 Training for Climbing Newsletter Get monthly training insights delivered to your inbox. Visit TrainingForClimbing.com to subscribe.
📱 Follow Eric Instagram: @eric_horst | @training4climbing YouTube: Training For Climbing Twitter: @Train4Climbing Facebook: Training For Climbing
Music by Misty Murphy
Copyright 2026 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.- Want to climb longer, recover faster, and finally stop getting pumped off your project? Then this episode is for you.
In this special coaching session with Ryan Devlin, I deliver a deep-dive masterclass on rock climbing endurance training, sport climbing performance, and the science of building lasting endurance.
We explore why improving endurance isn't just about surviving pumpy workouts—it's about becoming a more efficient climber by eliminating hidden energy leaks caused by overgripping, poor pacing, inefficient movement, fear, hesitation, and mental tension. You'll learn how better technique, movement economy, breathing, and confidence can dramatically improve your endurance before you ever change your fitness.
Next, we dive into the physiology of climbing performance, breaking down the differences between aerobic endurance, anaerobic power endurance, and maximum strength—and why all three must be trained if you want to reach your climbing potential. I explain how to structure your training using route climbing, treadwall intervals, spray wall workouts, bouldering circuits, and submaximal volume sessions to build endurance the smart way instead of simply climbing until your forearms explode.
Whether you're training for your first 5.12, projecting steep sport routes, preparing for long days at the crag, or simply looking for the most effective climbing training methods backed by exercise science and decades of coaching experience, this episode is packed with practical strategies you can apply immediately. If you're serious about becoming a stronger, more durable, and more efficient climber, this is an episode you'll want to save, revisit, and share with your climbing partners.
If you love the T4C podcast, please leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a friend or climbing partner!
Podcast Sponsors
Thank you to La Sportiva, PhysiVantage Nutrition, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes!
Save 10% off a new BlueWater Rope with checkout code: ERIC_CLINIC
Save on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with code: PODCAST15 (North America only)
European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com.
Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx
Connect with Eric Hörst
📬 Training for Climbing Newsletter Get monthly training insights delivered to your inbox. Visit TrainingForClimbing.com to subscribe.
📱 Follow Eric Instagram: @eric_horst | @training4climbing YouTube: Training For Climbing Twitter: @Train4Climbing Facebook: Training For Climbing
Cover photo: by Caleb Timmerman
Music by Misty Murphy
Copyright 2026 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. - Cameron Hörst recently completed the hardest route of his climbing career: Big Bone (5.15a/9a+), a king line out Utah's massive Fynn Cave.
What makes his first ascent especially compelling isn't just the grade—it's the journey. Big Bone was a project that demanded years of training, 60+ working goes and redpoint attempts, countless setbacks, and a level of patience few climbers ever develop.
In this episode of the Training for Climbing Podcast, Cameron unpacks the entire process. We dive into the physical, mental, and tactical challenges of working a multi-year project, the breakthroughs that finally moved the needle, and the lessons any climber can apply to their own long-term goals—whether you're projecting 5.10 or 5.15.
One of the most fascinating takeaways is that the breakthrough wasn't a sudden gain in finger strength or power. Instead, it came from years of accumulated training adaptations, comprehensive energy system development, improved recovery, refined tactics, and learning when not to climb. Cameron shares how he finally broke through a plateau that had stalled his progress for multiple seasons.
RUNDOWN
2:00 – What Does It Feel Like to Send a Multi-Year Project?
5:00 – Inside Utah's Incredible Fin Cave
7:00 – Anatomy of the "Big Bone" Project
9:50 – Why the Route is So Difficult
12:00 – Cameron's Three-Year Journey on the Route
13:50 – Breaking Through a Plateau
16:40 – Training Lessons from Big Bone
18:00 – Recovery: The Secret Weapon
21:00 – Sending on the Second Try
24:10 - Energy System Training and the benefits of becoming more fat adapted
26:00 – Mental Growth and Performance Psychology
28:30 - Discovery of Fin Cave
31:30 – The Evolution of "Bone Tomahawk" and "Big Bone"
32:00 – Friendship and Mentorship with Joe Kinder
34:20 – Balancing University, Life, and Elite Climbing
40:00 – The Importance of Partners and Community
44:00 - Debating 5.15a versus 5.15b -- how to grade a hard FA?
47:30 - Ultimately, the grade isn't important -- the journey is what counts!
48:10 – Coaching, Exercise Science, and Helping Others
Follow and contact Cameron on Instagram @cam_horst
Visit Cam's website at: www.CameronHorst.com
49:28 – What's Next?
51:05 – Eric's summarizes 8 Key Tips and Takeaways from this interview.
54:30 - Sponsor Discount:
Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with code: PODCAST15 (North America only)
56:00 -⭐ Enjoy the podcast?
Leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a climbing partner!
56:40 - Hörst Out!
Podcast Sponsors
Thank you to La Sportiva, PhysiVantage Nutrition, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes!
Save 10% off a new BlueWater Rope with checkout code: ERIC_CLINIC
Save on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with code: PODCAST15 (North America only)
European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com.
Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx
Connect with Eric Hörst
📬 Training for Climbing Newsletter Get monthly training insights delivered to your inbox. Visit TrainingForClimbing.com to subscribe.
📱 Follow Eric Instagram: @eric_horst | @training4climbing YouTube: Training For Climbing Twitter: @Train4Climbing Facebook: Training For Climbing
Music by Misty Murphy
Copyright 2026 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. - In this inspiring new "Weekend Crushers" feature, I sit down with Florida-based climber Jessica Jenkins to unpack her incredible journey from a teenager climbing plastic in Orlando to recently sending her hardest route ever: the iconic Red River Gorge testpiece Swingline (5.13d). Her story is far more than a tale of grades and performance—it's a masterclass in resilience, adaptability, patience, and building a life that supports your passion even when circumstances aren't ideal.
Whether you live far from outdoor climbing, struggle to balance work and family with training, or simply need a reminder that long-term consistency still wins, I think you'll find Jessica's story deeply motivating. Her journey proves that you don't need perfect circumstances to pursue extraordinary goals—you just need commitment, structure, and the willingness to keep showing up.
Key Inspirational Takeaways for Climbers Living Far from Rock
1. Your location does not define your potential.
Jessica proves that you do not need to live in Boulder, Salt Lake, or Chattanooga to become a high-level climber. Smart training, consistency, and strategic travel can close much of the gap.
2. Training with intention matters more than perfect access.
Because she can't climb outdoors weekly, Jessica trains with incredible specificity—adjusting board angles, targeting pocket strength for Wyoming trips, and using power-endurance circuits to prepare for the Red River Gorge.
3. Passion fuels discipline.
Long drives, limited outdoor mileage, inconsistent weather, and balancing work obligations would discourage many climbers. But Jessica's love for climbing continues to drive her effort year after year.
4. Progress is rarely linear.
Even highly prepared climbers experience setbacks, regressions, injuries, and emotional struggles. Near-sends and failures are often part of the process—not signs that the goal is impossible.
5. Build a life that supports your passion.
Jessica intentionally shaped her career and lifestyle around climbing freedom. Rather than waiting for ideal circumstances, she created systems that allowed climbing to remain central in her life.
6. Long-term consistency beats short-term intensity.
Jessica's breakthrough wasn't the result of one magical training cycle. It was built over 16 years of climbing, coaching, learning, traveling, and steadily improving.
7. Community matters.
The interview highlights how supportive partners, climbing friends, coaches, and mentors can make a huge difference—especially for climbers who live far from outdoor destinations.
⭐ Enjoy the podcast? Leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a climbing partner!
Podcast Sponsors
Thank you to La Sportiva, PhysiVantage Nutrition, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes!
Save 10% off a new BlueWater Rope with checkout code: ERIC_CLINIC
Save on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with code: PODCAST15 (North America only)
European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com.
Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx
Connect with Eric Hörst
📬 Training for Climbing Newsletter Get monthly training insights delivered to your inbox. Visit TrainingForClimbing.com to subscribe.
📱 Follow Eric Instagram: @eric_horst | @training4climbing YouTube: Training For Climbing Twitter: @Train4Climbing Facebook: Training For Climbing
Music by Misty Murphy
Copyright 2026 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC. - In this inaugural Weekend Crushers episode of the T4C podcast, Eric Hörst sits down with Aaron Shamy—an inspiring example of what's possible when passion, persistence, and smart training intersect with real life. Aaron's journey spans elite youth climbing in the 1990s, a 15+ year hiatus, and a remarkable comeback culminating in a 5.14c redpoint at age 45.
This is more than a comeback story—it's a masterclass in long-term progression. Aaron shares practical training insights, mindset strategies, and real-world tactics that apply to middle-aged climbers and weekend warriors of any age.
Here are a few key takeaways from this episode:
Long-term consistency beats short-term intensity
You can come back stronger—even after years (or decades) away
Progress isn't linear—trust that small gains will accumulate and compound
Build a system that fits your life, so that you an excel in all the important areas
Strength-to-weight matters—but proper fueling matters more
Community enhances both performance and enjoyment
Climbing longevity is real—with the right mindset and approach
I'm confident you'll find this episode both highly informative and deeply inspiring.
⏱️ Key Points & Timestamps
0:15 – Intro & Series Launch
4:05 – Aaron Shamy backstory
7:45 – Life Happens: Family & Hiatus
12:45 – The Comeback Begins (age 38)
15:05 – Rebuilding from Scratch
26:00 – "Flight of the Conchords" Project and the Pyramid Strategy
33:00 – The Days, Weeks, Months Projecting "Flight"...
36:00 – Training and Non-Linear Progress
38:30 – Nutrition & Weight Loss Transformation
44:00 – Aaron's 3 Keys to Success
46:10 – Community & Support System
48:20 – What's Next?
54:15 - Final Takeaways & Key Points
⭐ Enjoy the podcast? Leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a climbing partner!
Podcast Sponsors
Thank you to La Sportiva, PhysiVantage Nutrition, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes!
Save 10% off a new BlueWater Rope with checkout code: ERIC_CLINIC
Save on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with code: PODCAST15 (North America only)
European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com.
Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx
Connect with Eric Hörst
📬 Training for Climbing Newsletter Get monthly training insights delivered to your inbox. Visit TrainingForClimbing.com to subscribe.
📱 Follow Eric Instagram: @eric_horst | @training4climbing YouTube: Training For Climbing Twitter: @Train4Climbing Facebook: Training For Climbing
Music by Misty Murphy
Copyright 2026 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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Sobre Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. With his unique combination of veteran experience and knowledge of the cutting-edge research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone.
Eric is one of the world's most knowledge climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 300,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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