Unreserved Wine Talk

• 360: Rooted in Change: The Stories Behind Sustainable Wine with Andy Neather and Jane Masters

  How can the wine world help tackle climate change, and why is choosing sustainable and biodynamic wines not enough? What happens when vineyards embrace biodiversity with cover crops, insects, and wildlife? How are wine producers in South Africa rebuilding natural ecosystems around their vineyards? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Andrew Neather & Jane Masters. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks.   Giveaway Two of you are going to win a copy of Andrew Neather & Jane Masters' terrific new book, Rooted in Change: The Stories Behind Sustainable Wine. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at [email protected] and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck!   Highlights How have Jane and Andrew’s wine careers led to many interesting experiences around the world? What will you read about in Jane and Andrew’s new book, Rooted in Change? How did Andrew and Jane become interested in sustainability in the wine world? How did Jane and Andy come to collaborate on writing their book and how do their skills and style complement each other? Was it challenging not to sound alarmist while effectively presenting the urgency of climate change and sustainability? How can consumers help reduce their environmental impact when choosing wines? What changes are happening in the wine industry to change packaging standards to reduce carbon emissions? What can we learn from the innovations in biodiversity-focused viticulture taking place in South Africa? Can regenerative viticulture and its principles be adopted on a large scale by major producers as well as boutique wineries?   Key Takeaways There's no doubt that climate change is happening and there aren't easy solutions. We're very often led to believe that with consumer capitalism, you can buy a certain product or avoid a certain type of packaging, say, and that everything will be okay. And it's really just much more complicated than that, because you're talking about the complexity of global supply chains, all sorts of industrial processes associated with packaging and other things. It doesn't mean to say you can't make sensible choices as a consumer. The great thing about vines is that, like fruit trees, orchards, they live for a long time. The roots go very far down into the ground. By creating this biodiversity, it also builds the insects and all the life in the soil. It becomes a natural, organic circular economy. And that helps protect vines against disease. Some of these insects keep the predators from the vines at bay. So it just becomes a much more resilient system that also captures and retains more carbon within it. In South Africa, in the Western Cape, the natural vegetation before it was cultivated is called fynbos. Johan Reyneke, a biodynamic producer in Stellenbosch, is rewilding bits of his land to join together these islands into corridors. The animals came back quickly and it's restoring the natural balance of the land.   About Jane Masters and Andrew Neather Jane Masters became a Master of Wine in 1997 and was elected as Chairman of the Institute of Masters of Wine in September 2016. She is an independent wine consultant with over 30 years of experience and clients around the world as well as working with the Majestic Wine Grp in UK. She has also filmed several wine shows and written sections for Jancis Robinson’s Oxford Companion to Wine and Wine Opus. Andrew Neather is a freelance British journalist. A former academic historian, environmental campaigner, political speechwriter and newspaper journalist, he was the London Evening Standard’s wine critic, 2005-15. He now blogs weekly on wine and food at A View from my Table, writes a regular column for Tim Atkin MW’s website, and has contributed to publications including The Independent, Harpers and Club Oenologique.       To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/360.

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• 359: How Is The Spanish Sparkling Wine Cava Different From The Italian Bubbly Prosecco Iin Production, Taste and Reputation?

  How is the Spanish sparkling wine Cava different from the Italian bubbly Prosecco? What makes Xarel·lo stand out from Spain’s other traditional Cava grapes? How did Alicante’s Monastrell grape give rise to the rare Fondillón wine, and what makes it different from Port or Sherry? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I’m chatting with Sarah Jane Evans, author of the terrific new book The Wines of Central and Southern Spain: From Catalunya to Cadiz. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks.   Giveaway Two of you are going to win a copy of Sarah Jane Evans' wonderful new book, The Wines of Central and Southern Spain: From Catalunya to Cadiz. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at [email protected] and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck!   Highlights What do you need to know about Xarel·lo and Spanish sparkling wine? How does Cava compare to Prosecco? What effect does the aging process used for premium Cavas have on their taste profile, and how does it compare to Champagne? What is the historical significance of the Terra Alta region? Which historical artifacts has Sarah Jane encountered while visiting Spanish vineyards? How does Richard Ford’s 1840s observation about Valencia still define Spanish wine culture in the Valencia region? What might surprise you about the ancient amphorae in Valencia and how they’re used in modern winemaking? How do the three main styles of Sherry differ? Which types of glassware and food pair best with Sherry? What are copitas, and how do they differ from other glasses used for Sherry? How does serving temperature affect our enjoyment of Sherry? What do you need to know about wine and the Canary Islands? What challenges and opportunities does Sarah Jane see for the future of the Spanish wine industry?   Key Takeaways How is the Spanish sparkling wine Cava different from the Italian bubbly Prosecco? Prosecco bubbles are created and captured in the tank to make it a pleasantly fizzy drink. Whereas Cava is made exactly like Champagne. It's aged in the bottle with its yeast. It begins to develop other aromas which are nothing to do with flowers or fruits. The youngest Cava, can be released at nine months, younger than the youngest Champagne. If you're going to have a very young fizzy wine, then Prosecco is very appealing. What makes Xarel·lo stand out from Spain’s other traditional Cava grapes? People have started to recognise that this white grape variety, once just a component in blending, can be grown on its own and produces lovely, fresh, excitingly lively wines that are not very high in alcohol. If you're making Cava, it's the one that will last. It has a capacity to age, which is better than the other two. How did Alicante’s Monastrell grape give rise to the rare Fondillón wine, and what makes it different from Port or Sherry? Alicante is one of the places for Monastrell. Historically, they used to make a wine out of this red grape that got so ripe they didn't need to fortify it because the grape on the vine got so sweet that it turned itself into alcohol. Then it was a wine that was stable enough you could have it in a barrel. Then you could send it to India or to Africa, all around the world.   About Sarah Jane Evans Sarah Jane is an award-winning writer. She travels widely as an educator and consultant, and is a Contributing Editor to Decanter. Her books include The Wines of Central and Southern Spain, The Wines of Northern Spain, Seville, Chocolate Unwrapped, and also the entries on Spain and Sherry for the annual Hugh Johnson Pocket Wine Guide. Sarah Jane received the Royal Order of Isabella the Catholic awarded by the King of Spain for her work for Spain. Beyond Spain, her special interests in wine are Greece, South America and the great fortified and sweet wines of the world.     To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/359.

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• 358: How Does the Biggest Misconception About Spanish Wine Make It a Hidden Gem for Wine Lovers? Sarah Jane Evans Reveals This and More in Her New Book

  How does the biggest misconception about Spanish wine make it a hidden gem for wine lovers? How did Spain’s civil war and period of dictatorship delay the growth of its wine culture? What makes the vineyards of Priorat challenging to walk and unforgettable to visit? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Sarah Jane Evans, author of the terrific new book The Wines of Central and Southern Spain: From Catalunya to Cadiz. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks.   Giveaway Two of you are going to win a copy of Sarah Jane Evans' wonderful new book, The Wines of Central and Southern Spain: From Catalunya to Cadiz. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at [email protected] and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck!   Highlights How did the memory of her parents bottling wine at home influence Sarah Jane’s perception of wine? What is the Oxford vs. Cambridge University Varsity Blind Wine-Tasting Match? What was Sarah Jane’s experience as a judge at wine competitions in Japan? What’s unique about Japan’s peaches and why does Sarah Jane recommend them as a “can’t miss” on a trip to Japan? Why was Sarah Jane initially drawn to Spanish wine? What is the Officer’s Cross of the Royal Order of Isabella the Catholic and why was Sarah Jane awarded this honour? Why did Sarah Jane choose to write her Master of Wine dissertation on the alchemists of Sherry? What is the significance of Sarah Jane’s choice to use first names when writing about winemakers? What are the hallmark characteristics of Spanish orange wines? Where are Spain and its territories located in Europe? What’s the biggest misconception about Spanish wine? Why does Sarah Jane consider Spain the most exciting country in Europe for wine? How are winemakers reviving old vineyards in Spain? What makes Casa Castillo’s Monastrell wines unique?   Key Takeaways Unfortunately, people think of Spanish wine as cheap and cheerful. That image is hard to to get rid of. So when you look at a fine wine list, if you're in a Michelin-starred restaurant, you will start off with maybe Champagne, and then you'll have France, and then you'll get into Italy, and then, if you're lucky, Spain will come next. The good thing about that is that it makes very top wine in Spain, still very good value. Since Spain had a civil war just before the Second World War, and after that, they had a fascist dictatorship that went on till the late 1970s, they didn't join Europe until the 1980s. So during that time of the dictatorship, they were told what to farm, where to farm, how to farm it. So there was no priority about fostering a wonderful wine culture. that's only really coming in the last 40 years. Spain has just been a little bit behind, but it has to escape, because you can't survive on paying growers next to nothing, making very cheap wines.   About Sarah Jane Evans Sarah Jane is an award-winning writer. She travels widely as an educator and consultant, and is a Contributing Editor to Decanter. Her books include The Wines of Central and Southern Spain, The Wines of Northern Spain, Seville, Chocolate Unwrapped, and also the entries on Spain and Sherry for the annual Hugh Johnson Pocket Wine Guide. Sarah Jane received the Royal Order of Isabella the Catholic awarded by the King of Spain for her work for Spain. Beyond Spain, her special interests in wine are Greece, South America and the great fortified and sweet wines of the world.     To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/358.

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• 357: How Much of Wine's Taste Is Shaped By Psychology? Dr. Alex Maltman Reveals The Surprising Evidence

  How much of what we perceive about the taste of wine is actually shaped by psychology? Are vineyard soils important contributors to a wine’s tasting profile? Why do so many wine producers highlight their soils as a unique factor that makes their wines stand out? Where do the “minerals” we taste in wine originate from? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Dr. Alex Maltman, author of the new book Taste the Limestone, Smell the Slate: A Geologist Wanders Through the World of Wine. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks   Giveaway Two of you are going to win a copy of Alex Maltman's terrific book, Taste the Limestone, Smell the Slate. A Geologist Wanders Through the World of Wine. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at [email protected] and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck!   Highlights What did a Dutch research study show about identifying soil type through blind tasting? Is there any geological evidence to support volcanic soils imparting certain characteristics to wine? Why can vines access nutrients from soil but not larger rock layers? Should we consider the root stocks of vines and the type of yeast used for fermentation when analyzing the taste profile of a wine? How does consumer psychology influence our perception of the taste of wine? Which aspects of geology and wine is Alex planning to write about in the future? If Alex could share a bottle of wine with anyone outside the wine world, who would that be?   Key Takeaways How much of what we perceive about the taste of wine is actually shaped by psychology?  It's the psychology that people think, “Oh, heavy bottle. This must be a classy wine.” For many wine drinkers, what the wine expert says will override the more academic factors, rather like a clinician saying, take these tablets, you'll be better, if the wine authority says you're going to taste vanilla. Yeah, I'm getting vanilla. Are vineyard soils important contributors to a wine’s tasting profile? In one experiment, several growers planted four different grape varieties, each in different soils, and then tried to grow the grapes, vinify the grapes uniformly, and then sent the finished wines off to a completely independent expert tasting panel. The panelists were only able to group the wines according to variety. Soils didn't come through at all.   For wine producers, soil is one of the only factors that are difficult to replicate, so they're going to say their soil is special. It's a great selling point. When some wine commentators are saying they're tasting minerals from the soil because it's been taken up by the vine root and transmitted through to the wine. Well, no, that doesn't happen like that. But in any case, any nutrients that were taken up by the vine root and did make it all the way through to the finished wine, almost certainly, in practice, will have originated in the humus.   About Dr. Alex Maltman Alex Maltman is Emeritus Professor of Earth Sciences at Aberystwyth University, in Wales, U.K. Alongside a decorated career in university teaching and research, Alex has for fifty years grown vines and made wine at his home. And through this, perhaps inevitably, he became interested in vineyard geology and its fashionable but poorly understood relationship with wine. This led to numerous publications in both the popular press and academic journals. Alex is the author of the acclaimed Vineyards, Rocks, and Soils: A Wine Lover’s Guide to Geology and newly released Taste the Limestone, Smell the Slate. A Geologist Wanders Through the World of Wine.     To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/357.

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• 356: Why is Geology Essential for Vineyard Management but Overrated When It Comes to Wine Taste? Dr. Alex Maltman Shares Soil Secrets

  Why is geology essential for vineyard management but overrated when it comes to wine taste? Do soils get too much credit for wine flavour, when invisible factors might be the real drivers? What does “minerality” in wine really mean? Rock, nutrient, or just taste perception? In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Alex Maltman, author of the terrific new book, Taste the Limestone, Smell the Slate. A Geologist Wanders Through the World of Wine. You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks   Giveaway Two of you are going to win a copy of Alex Maltman's terrific book, Taste the Limestone, Smell the Slate. A Geologist Wanders Through the World of Wine. To qualify, all you have to do is email me at [email protected] and let me know that you’ve posted a review of the podcast. I’ll choose two people randomly from those who contact me. Good luck!   Highlights How did a good teacher spark Alex’s lifelong fascination with geology? What initially attracted Alex to wine and how did his curiosity evolve over the past 50 years? How did Alex’s background in geology support his career as a wine writer? In what ways does Alex’s first book, Vineyards, Rocks and Soils, differ from his new book, Taste the Limestone, Smell the Slate? Why does Alex believe that the influence of geology on wine is overstated in contrast to its influence on beer? What impact did geology have on how beer first developed? How do geological minerals, nutrient minerals, and the taste perception of minerality differ? What is the relevance of geological age to the growing vine in the bedrock? Does knowing the soil type of the vineyard tell us anything about the wine’s characteristics? Why do so many wine drinkers and writers love to talk about geology? How has the concept of terroir been misunderstood and oversimplified? Why is it important to distinguish between the importance of geology for vineyard management versus its influence on the taste of wine in the glass?   Key Takeaways Am I tasting the limestone, smelling the slate? No, you can't. The grower needs to know about his soil. The geology will influence so many things in the vineyard, so the grower may well want to dig soil pits and see what the roots are doing to inform his vineyard management. But this is not the same thing as the flavor that develops in fermentation through to our wine glass. People look at, say, a hill slope with vines on it, and year after year, the wines from here always taste different to the wines from there. What's different? Oh, it's the soil. But at the same time, there's a whole host of invisible factors operating on that hill slope that we know these factors influence how grapes ripen and how the flavor precursors in the grape develop, which are going to go on to in the fermentation make the wine taste like it does. I tend to use the word geological mineral for those compounds that are making half of the vineyard soil and that come together to make rocks. And nutrient mineral, which are single elements, which we need, as well as vines, in order to function. And this word minerality, that's a taste perception. I don't know what it means or what causes it, but that's a different third meaning of the word mineral.   About Dr. Alex Maltman Alex Maltman is Emeritus Professor of Earth Sciences at Aberystwyth University, in Wales, U.K. Alongside a decorated career in university teaching and research, Alex has for fifty years grown vines and made wine at his home. And through this, perhaps inevitably, he became interested in vineyard geology and its fashionable but poorly understood relationship with wine. This led to numerous publications in both the popular press and academic journals. Alex is the author of the acclaimed Vineyards, Rocks, and Soils: A Wine Lover’s Guide to Geology and newly released Taste the Limestone, Smell the Slate. A Geologist Wanders Through the World of Wine.     To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/356.

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