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  • The Business of Watches [007] James Lamdin Of Analog Shift On The Vintage And Pre-Owned Market And Why All Authenticity Guarantees Aren't The Same
    James Lamdin is a sage voice of reason and experience in the vintage watch market. He's earned those titles through his years in the business. A co-founder of the OG collector meetup RedBar Group, Lamdin went on to found Analog Shift, the vintage and pre-owned dealer acquired by Watches of Switzerland (also the parent company of Hodinkee) in 2020. In a conversation recorded live in front of an audience at UBS House of Craft in New York City in October, Lamdin breaks down the vintage and pre-owned watch market, how we got here, where we've been, and where we're likely going. He also gives plenty of useful insight on what it means for a second-hand watch to be truly authenticated and how collectors need to stay curious to get the most out of their watch-collecting journey. Lamdin proves himself a wealth of knowledge when it comes to used timepieces and what anyone should be thinking about when they're considering buying pre-owned. We had a blast recording this episode, especially taking questions from the audience. Be sure to leave any thoughts, comments, or questions in the comments, and we'll do our best to respond. Show Notes00:30 James Lamdin and Analog Shift 2:00 Bloomberg.com4:15 The Biggest Ever Boom In Swiss Watches is Coming to an End4:45 Watches of Switzerland Group USA Acquires Analogue Shift6:09 Secondary Market Rolex and Patek Price Rise, Fall and Recovery10:00 U.S. Tariffs Impact On Secondary Market 12:11 Under The Radar: American Watches16:00 RedBar Group 20:40 Omega Speedmaster Professional 23:00 Rolex Certified Pre-Owned 25:15 There are not enough watchmakers 35:54 Secondary Watch Market To Top New Sales By 2033 At $85 Billion 39:13 Neo Vintage Watches 41:01 The Military Industrial Complex 44:24 Cartier Tank Americaine Diamond 48:31 Ebay Authentication For Watches  
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  • The Business of Watches [006] Audience Q&A Special With Hodinkee's Editor-In-Chief James Stacey
    On this week's episode of The Business of Watches, we're doing something a little different. We're taking your questions, and we've got a special guest as Hodinkee Editor-In-Chief, James Stacey, joins the podcast to help answer your queries on the business side of the dial. We hit a lot of topics, from the best perpetual calendars under $20,000, to rising watch prices, the recent surge in Swiss watch exports to the U.K., and just how popular is Halloween in Switzerland? It's a fun episode, and we hope you enjoy it. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This new show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn.This episode of The Business of Watches is brought to you by Panerai. Click here to learn more about the Luminor Collection.Show Notes:2:30 How Halloween Became Part of Swiss Culture 3:20 William Friedkin's Sorcerer5:20 Simon Brette  5:25 Akrivia / Rexhep Rexhepi 6:10 MB&F 8:05 Sylvain Berneron 9:30 Omega Watches13:00 Omega Speedmaster Professional (White dial)13:30 New Speedmaster Dark Side of The Moon 15:40 Niels Eggerding interview16:20 FC Classic Perpetual Calendar 16:50 Furlan Marri Perpetual One18:00 Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar18:30 Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar 19:30 IWC DaVinci Perpetual Calendar Ref. 3750 (Fratello)19:40 Panerai 22:10 Swiss Watch Export Statistics 29:00 What Richemont and Swatch Financial Results Tell Us About The State of The Swiss Watch Industry35:40 Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 38 MM in Damascus Steel (Hodinkee) 35:45 Longines 35:54 Sinn Watches 
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  • The Business of Watches [005] Frederique Constant CEO Niels Eggerding On Why He's Fighting To Keep FC's Perpetual Calendar Under $10,000
    On this episode of The Business of Watches Podcast we drop in on Niels Eggerding, the CEO of Frederique Constant (and sister marque Alpina), at the brand's headquarters in Plan-les-Ouates, Switzerland near Geneva. Eggerding has been in the corner office since 2018 and has steered FC through a series of challenges and triumphs during his time leading the company. The Dutchman has brought more high horology and cool collaborations to the value and volume-driven brand, including perpetual calendars and tourbillons as well as more precious-metal cases. But it's a delicate balance for Frederique Constant as value-priced watches still account for more than 90% of its production volumes. Amid rising input costs and a strong Swiss franc, not to mention the challenge of U.S. tariffs, Eggerding's biggest challenge is maintaining FC's value proposition while burnishing its reputation as a serious watchmaker able to produce high-end timepieces. At the same time, he has to keep delivering sales and profit for the brand's owner, Citizen of Japan.  On this episode of The Business of Watches Podcast, we drop in on Niels Eggerding, the CEO of Frederique Constant (and sister marque Alpina), at the brand's headquarters in Plan-les-Ouates, Switzerland, near Geneva.We hope you enjoy our conversation with Niels Eggerding. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This new show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn.Show Notes:4:10 Frederique Constant Worldtimer 5:00 FC Classic Perpetual Calendar 5:31 Company history and milestones6:00 Vacheron Constantin7:30 Citizen8:30 La Joux-Perret 10:15 LJP solar quartz movement in Tag Heuer 12:30 Manufacture collection 12:45 Highlife collection16:00 New manufacture QP in 40mm case22:00 FC Women's collection23:23 FC Manchette 28:00 U.S. tariffs and watch prices43:00 FC YouTube channel 
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  • The Business of Watches [004] Tag Heuer CEO Antoine Pin On Carbon Hairspring Setbacks, Pricing, Tariffs, And Formula One
    On this week's The Business Of Watches podcast, we catch up with Antoine Pin, the Chief Executive Officer of Tag Heuer. He's having quite a year. The brand is in the first season of a new decade-long deal to be the official timekeeping sponsor of Formula 1. It's a high-profile, multi-brand agreement that, if executed correctly, could launch Tag Heuer to a whole new level of visibility. But it also comes at a challenging time for the global economy and the watch industry in general as soaring input costs, a strong Swiss franc, and U.S. tariffs on Swiss goods take a toll on margins and confidence.Pin tells us Tag Heuer has plenty of experience overcoming tough challenges. When the brand launched the first version of its carbon hairspring technology in 2019, there were issues. But the Tag Heuer laboratory didn't give up, and now it's back with a new version, which it says has overcome the problems. We hope you enjoy our conversation with Antoine Pin. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond.Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This new show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn.Show Notes: 4:10 Tag Heuer at Geneva Watch Days 6:48 Previous issues with carbon9:00 New carbon spring oscillator solution11:10 Silicon hairspring13:00 Tag Heuer Formula 1 15:15 Cautious production20:00 Tag Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph (CHF 155,000) 25:30 Tariffs and price increases 
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  • The Business of Watches [003] Georges Kern: The Breitling CEO Talks Growth Despite Challenges Facing The Watch Industry
    Georges Kern is emphatic. The Breitling Chief Executive Officer isn't slowing down on plans to expand his company's reach. Even as U.S. tariffs and economic headwinds challenge the industry, Kern is pushing ahead with planned launches of the Universal Geneve and Gallet brands in 2026. He's already orchestrated rapid growth and value creation at the historic Breitling marque since taking on the top job in 2017. Breitling was sold to private equity partners for less than a billion dollars that year. In late 2022, a change in majority shareholder valued the company at more than $4 billion, sources said at the time.  But now with the industry facing a host of economic and political pressures, Kern's expansion efforts are being tested. In a candid interview, he says the luxury watch industry is poised for an eventual rebound. People won't delay purchases forever, he says, and when they're ready, he expects his growing stable of brands to have the right products to match the wants and needs of new clients.Show Notes:Show Notes:5:00 Breitling's deal with the NFL 5:50 Breitling watches6:00 Morgan Stanley LuxeConsult Watch Market Report 7:10 Breitling Emergency 8:00 Breitling Top Time10:21 Breitling Navitimer 15:30 Panerai 18:15 Breitling to Relaunch Gallet22:30 Universal Geneve 26:10 Hermés Bags 27:00 Price of gold 29:40 How the Swiss watch industry is dealing with tariffs 32:20 What's up with watch prices? 34:30 Swiss Watch Exports 35:40 China Watch Market 38:10 Carpe Diem 
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