HODINKEE Podcasts

To cap off an exciting day 2 at Watches and Wonders, Ben, Malaika, and James chat about the latest releases from Vacheron Constantin, IWC, Grand Seiko, Oris, Lange, and a few additional models from Rolex. From old-school throwbacks to the dual timers and divers we’ve been begging for, it’s a broad mix of great watches announced this week in Geneva.

Thanks to Bugari for their support of this episode of Hodinkee Podcast. For more, visit Bulgari.com

It's the first day of the fair in Geneva, and James is joined by Ben and Tim to chat over the brand new releases from Rolex – including the new enamel-dialed 126502 Daytona – as well as Patek's offering for the 50th anniversary of the Nautilus, some curiosities, and line extensions from Tudor as the brand celebrates 100 years, and all that glitters (and is Privé) from Cartier. Also, as a special treat, Ben and Andy Hoffman sit down with Matthieu Humair, the CEO of the Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation, for a mini-episode of The Business of Watches. The trio chats about how the fair has evolved for 2026,  the local program in Geneva, and more.

Special thanks to Bulgari for their support of this episode. Learn more at Bulgari.com.

This week on The Business of Watches, we're in Geneva marking 50 years of Raymond Weil and an in-depth conversation with Chief Executive Officer, Elie Bernheim. At a time when much of the market is premiumizing and moving upscale, Raymond Weil is leaning in to its value-driven, Swiss-made heritage, producing approachable-priced timepieces that celebrate half a century of watchmaking and design.

Bernheim gives us a rundown of the brand's history, and talks about the "The Fifty", a limited edition version of its wildly popular Millesime that utilizes a new-old-stock Valjoux chronograph caliber from 1976 (of course). There's also a touring exhibition of heritage museum pieces highlighting some of the brand's most compelling watch designs, and, breaking news - they're opening a new Raymond Weil boutique in Geneva's Old Town, giving the company retail presence in the heart of the city that is the center of Switzerland's watch industry.

It's a milestone year for the brand, and Bernheim gives us the insight as to how Raymond Weil has met the challenges and stayed relevant to become a critical part of the industry landscape. Building on the recent success of the Millesime collection, the company is positioning itself for another half-century and beyond. 

But first Ben Clymer stops by to talk about what is probably the biggest new watch release so far this year, Rexhep Rexhepi's new flyback chronograph, the RRCHF. Ben tells us how this timepiece raises the bar and sets a new standard for independent watchmakers. He talks about pricing and how the chronograph compares to some of the other most important names in fine watchmaking. It's bonus content on top of his 6,000-word in-depth take on the RRCHF. 

Show Notes 

1:40 In-Depth: The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback (RRCHF) Ben Clymer Hodinkee 
2:53 The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback (RRCHF) As Explained By Rexhep Rexhepi (YouTube Hodinkee) 
4:50 Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph With Black Dial (Live Pics & Pricing) (Hodinkee) 
5:01 First Photos: The Patek Philippe 5172G Hand-Wound Chronograph 
8:00 Five questions to Elie Bernheim, Raymond Weil CEO 
8:50 The Story Of an Independent Watchmaker Raymond Weil 
14:23 Raymond Weil: The Legacy Tour 
15:20 Introducing: The Fifty From Raymond Weil Celebrates The Brand's Semicentennial By Offering A Piece Of The Past (Hodinkee) 
17:30 Hands-On: Did Raymond Weil Really Make A Watch For Watch Enthusiasts? (Hodinkee) 
20:45 Introducing: The Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage Brings Classic Shaped Watch Elegance At An Approachable Price (Live Pics) (Hodinkee) 
21:42 Business News: Rolex And Cartier Are In Another League – A Deep Dive On The Pains And Gains In Morgan Stanley's "Swiss Watcher" Report (Hodinkee) 
29:15 As China Retreats And The U.S. Wobbles, Is India The Next Great Hope For The Luxury Watch Market?

There is already a bevy of alternatives or side venues to the mighty Watches and Wonders, taking place during what's now known as Geneva Watch Week. Maxime Couturier and Lorenzo Maillard expect there's room for one more. They're the guys behind Chronopolis, a new gathering space in downtown Geneva that's promising to give profile to the 20 or so brands participating during what's arguably the most important week of the year for the industry. 

Armed with a hipster watch enthusiast persona, Couturier, Maillard, and their crew of dealers, collectors, and friends, embody what makes the watch scene cool and fun in Geneva. Now they're trying to bring that same attitude to Chronopolis with brands paying for the privilege of being part of their scene. In a discussion ahead of the show, we discuss why there's a need for yet another watch fair and what's the best way to get young people excited about watches. 

But first, Hodinkee Senior Editor Mark Kauzlarich has covered plenty of watch fairs in his time, and he drops in to discuss the current state of industry trade shows and salons. We discuss where they're headed and how they're adapting to the current realities and demands of collectors and enthusiasts. 

Show Notes: 

4:46 Furlan Marri 

4:58 Hazemann & Monnin Wins The Second Edition Of The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize For Independent Creatives (Hodinkee) 

6:35 Time To Watches 

7:10 AHCI 

10:10 Chronopolis Independent Watch Fair 

12:00 Marché de Plainpalais (Ville de Genève) 

14:05 Heist Out (Instagram) 

16:40 Area 51 (Sotheby's and Heist Out Auction) 

19:20 Watches and Wonders 

19:53 ApresDemain Agency 

21:01 Hegid 

24:43 Tom DuCarouge 

32:18 Breda 

38:13 Watches and Culture (FHH)

This week on The Business of Watches, we get to the heart of what makes a mechanical or quartz-powered watch tick. Jean-Claude Eggen is the Chief Executive Officer of La Joux-Perret, a Swiss movement manufacturer that's on the rise as it competes with rivals, including Sellita, as a supplier to brands ranging from mainstream mass market players such as TAG Heuer to upstart micro-brands, including Kollokium. 

Eggen doesn't pull punches when discussing what's driving growth at LJP as he talks prices, movement development, and technology, and how to keep clients coming back. LJP has experienced massive increases in volumes and production under his leadership since 2020. From fewer than 10,000 movements annually less than a decade ago, LJP is now producing about 200,000 watch movements a year. He tells us how they got here and where they might go next, with new products boasting greater precision and smaller movements in both quartz and mechanical. 

But first, a good news initiative about a new non-profit organization in Switzerland that's looking to give young watchmakers the skills and machines they need to carry on the metiers d' art (or specialized skills) that make high-end watchmaking so unique. Baudouin van Es is the young man behind Tad Kozh, and he drops by to tell us what the new program is and where it gets its unusual name.

Van Es has convinced some heavy hitters to help out with Tad Kozh, gathering a who's who of industry artisans, craftspersons, and veteran business executives to oversee and govern the program, with some exciting watch collaborations to come.

Show Notes 

2:30 Tad Kozh 
2:40 Tourbillon Watch (Beaudouin van Es) 
3:05 Brittany region of France (Wikipedia) 
5:26 Metier d'art in watchmaking (The Watch Pages) 
6:50 Tad Kohz New Talent Award 
8:04 Schaublin 70 Lathe in Action (YouTube) 
8:05 Hauser Jig Boring machine (Exapro)  
8:20 Luc Monnet (Europa star) 
9:09 Jean-François Mojon (WorldTempus) 
9:19 Pietro Tomajer (Monochrome) 
10:30 Tad Kozh collaborations 
14:07 Anita Porchet (FHH) 
15:01 Ressence Watches 
17:49 Théo Auffret (Hodinkee) 
20:50 Max Büsser (Talking Watches Hodinkee) 
21:17 Marc André Deschoux 
21:44 Alex Ghotbi (Phillips) 
21:44 Roy Davidoff (Instagram) 
21:57 Guillaume Tetu (The Naked Watchmaker) 
28:20 Jean-Claude Eggen (Dubai Watch Week bio) 
28:57 La Joux-Perret 32:32 ETA (Wikipedia) 
32:45 Sellita 
33:40  LJP G100 
34:10 Business News: Switzerland's COSC Unveils 'Excellence Chronometer' Level Of Certification (Hodinkee) 
40:34 TAG Heuer Introduces The Formula One Solargraph (Hodinkee) 
41:06 Business News: LVMH Buys Minority Stake In Swiss Movement Maker La Joux-Perret From Japan's Citizen Group (Hodinkee) 
42:10 Citizen Group 
43:06 Alpina Alpiner Solarmetre 
44:10 Let The Sun Shine In: There's A New Day Rising for Solar-Powered Watches (Watchonista)