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How Fitting: design a slow fashion business that fits

Podcast How Fitting: design a slow fashion business that fits
Alison Hoenes | women's apparel patternmaker
How Fitting® is the podcast for slow fashion designers who want to create clothing and grow a business that fits their customer, lifestyle, and values. In biwee...

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  • Orchestrating Change in Concert Attire For Classical Musicians with Mercedes Smith of Blackstrad
    Classical music is rooted in rich history, formality, and tradition - but does the musicians’ concert attire still have to be? Blackstrad founder and professional flutist Mercedes Smith thinks it is time for a change of pace in performance wardrobes. In episode 110, hear how she is designing new concert black attire that resonates with the individuality of modern musicians while keeping the harmony of a unified ensemble. Mercedes Smith has served as the Principal Flutist of the Utah Symphony since 2012, having previously held the same position with the Houston Grand Opera and Houston Ballet Orchestras. She has performed in Carnegie Hall, throughout Europe and Asia, and at renowned music festivals including the Grand Teton Music Festival, Tanglewood, Music Academy of the West, Verbier Festival Orchestra, and Marlboro. Never one to idle, Mercedes turned the pandemic into an opportunity, obtaining a real estate license and earning an M.B.A. from the University of Utah. Her latest endeavor is the creation of Blackstrad, a line of concert attire designed for the modern musician. She resides in Salt Lake City with her husband and three very silly dogs. In this episode, you’ll learn: The role fashion plays in music performance The challenges musicians face in finding concert attire The gender inequality of concert dress codes (it's not what you think) How Mercedes got started on her brand How to know when a design is done and get over perfectionism What surprised Mercedes by how difficult it was  Why Mercedes wishes she had trusted her patternmaker more Why Mercedes doesn’t like the term “sustainability” The unique business model of Blackstrad Mercedes’ plans for Blackstrad and her own future People and resources mentioned in this episode: Blackstrad website Blackstrad Instagram Blackstrad email Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
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  • Questions To Ask Your Fabric Supplier To Ensure Quality & Consistency with Thomas Oviedo of Carr Textile
    Sourcing fabrics that fit their design, values, and budget is one of the biggest challenges designers face in making their designs a reality. It is such a relief when you can find a fabric supplier you can count on to grow your business. In episode 109, meet Thomas Oviedo, the Sales Manager at Carr Textile. In our conversation, he breaks down Carr’s fabric offerings, printing services, and rigorous quality testing process. Thomas also shares a list of questions to ask fabric suppliers to determine which fabric is the right fit for your project. Whether you are looking for 1yd or upwards of 10,000yds, Carr is here to help. Thomas Oviedo is the Sales Manager at Carr Textile Corporation, a leading name in stock fabric programs, digital printing on all fibers, and cap component manufacturing. With over 23 years of extensive experience in the textile industry across various sectors, Thomas has developed a deep understanding of market dynamics and customer needs. With a remarkable 51 years in business, Carr Textile has established itself as a one-stop shop, offering an extensive range of fabric options and services to meet the diverse needs of the industry. Carr Textile boasts a current stock inventory exceeding 6 million yards, all available with no minimum order requirements, making it a go-to resource for customers. Recently, Carr Textile acquired Philips-Boyne, a fine woven shirting company based in New York. This strategic acquisition positions Carr Textile to better serve various segments of the apparel industry, further enhancing its market reach. In this episode, you’ll learn: The innovative printing services Carr Textile offers within their TexTerra division The pros, cons, and costs of different printing methods What types of fabrics Carr Textile offers and specializes in Where Carr produces and stocks their fabrics The extensive fabric testing Carr Textile does in-house to ensure quality and consistency The ways Carr Textile supports brands from start-up to large corporate Good questions to ask your fabric supplier Thomas’ outlook on the effects of potential tariff increases The eco-friendly fabric lines and printing processes Carr offers People and resources mentioned in this episode: Carr Textile website Carr Textile Instagram Thomas’ email Thomas’ LinkedIn Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
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  • The Adventures Of Outdoor Apparel Entrepreneurship with Suzi Zook of Alta Reina
    Which is the bigger adventure: alpine skiing or starting a fashion brand? For Alta Reina founder Suzi Zook, they each provide their own set of thrills and challenges. In episode 108, Suzi tells of the peaks and valleys of starting her outdoor apparel brand made to fit tall women. From navigating sustainable sourcing of performance fabrics to overcoming pre-production self-doubt, Suzi is gearing up (in fun colors) for the long run. Suzi Zook is the engine behind Alta Reina, a clothing brand focused on high-quality, responsibly sourced materials and U.S. manufacturing. Tailored for tall women, Alta Reina offers vibrant, functional clothing with practical details like pockets, combining style and functionality for women who need more than the standard fit. Suzi holds a B.S. in Family and Consumer Sciences from Oregon State University, with a minor in music. A former rugby player and team president, she later became an assistant coach after graduation. Suzi has also worked as a substitute teacher in Oregon and Washington. After her time at REI, she pursued a graduate degree in Elementary Education from USC's Rossier School of Education. Suzi’s seven-year tenure at REI gave her extensive experience across a variety of roles, including repairs, rentals, customer service, footwear, and marketing. Her marketing work involved creating promotional videos and making guest appearances on morning talk shows to promote outdoor recreation and REI products. Through her work at REI, she developed a deep understanding of how clothing and shoes fit and perform, helping customers find apparel that suits their bodies. At 5’11", Suzi has always faced challenges finding clothing that fits her athletic frame. After years of crafting her own clothes, marrying a 6’10" partner, and raising two tall daughters, she realized the need for a brand that catered to women like her. The struggles her family faced finding well-fitting winter gear and swimsuits inspired the launch of Alta Reina (originally considered "Mountain Amazon"). In 2020, Suzi explored the market potential for a tall women's outdoor brand at the Outdoor Retailer trade show. Although the concept garnered interest, the COVID-19 pandemic delayed her plans. After recovering and caring for her family, Suzi enrolled in the Factory 45 mentorship program. Over the next two years, she sourced fabrics and U.S.-based manufacturers, overcoming setbacks like factories pivoting away from small designers. Eventually, she found a manufacturing partner in The Bronx, NY, and launched Alta Reina’s first line of base layers in Fall 2024. Suzi is committed to ethical production, opposing fast fashion and ensuring fair treatment of workers. While polyester is used for its durability and protection, she is dedicated to responsible sourcing. Her journey is fueled by a passion for creating stylish, functional clothing for tall women. Outside of work, Suzi continues to substitute teach and enjoys Nordic and alpine skiing, yoga, swimming, horseback riding, hiking, and mountain biking. She also sews and adds personal touches to her wardrobe. In this episode, you’ll learn: What didn’t fit about existing outdoor apparel in the market What is so special about niche brands How she got feedback on her brand concept before starting anything Why Suzi prefers to DIY many things in her business The point she realized she needed more education and accountability How Suzi is funding Alta Reina The point in development that scared her and how her husband’s advice helped her move forward How Suzi got connected with her patternmaker (me) and her factory The factors that influenced what products she started with How Alta Reina balances sustainability with performance People and resources mentioned in this episode: Alta Reina website Alta Reina Instagram Outdoor Retailer trade show Factory 45 sustainable fashion brand accelerator Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
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  • With Aging and Fashion Business, The Only Constant Is Change with Julie Corwin of Birdie & Claire
    With age, comes wisdom - and also change. Women 50+ years old are often overlooked by the fashion industry, but Birdie & Claire founder Julie Corwin celebrates style at every age. As these women go through transitions in their lives and bodies, Julie’s business has changed as well. In episode 107, Julie shares how her brand has stayed flexible and draws inspiration from the experience of women who have come before her. Julie is the founder and owner of Birdie & Claire, an independent women’s apparel brand dedicated to timeless, elevated style for women at every stage of life. The inspiration for Birdie & Claire came when Julie was shopping with her mom, aunt, and grandmother for an upcoming family wedding, and she noticed the limited age-inclusive clothing options available. Hearing their frustration about the lack of brands catering to women as they age inspired Julie to create a line that celebrates timeless style and confidence across generations. After completing her MBA, Julie launched Birdie & Claire, producing thoughtfully designed small-batch collections in NYC, with knitwear sustainably crafted on demand in Brooklyn. Birdie & Claire’s focus on versatile, flattering pieces that mix and match seamlessly is rooted in the brand’s mission to create clothing that resonates with women of all ages and offers style, comfort, and quality that is made to last. In this episode, you’ll learn: How Birdie & Claire defines age-appropriateness How Julie designs and runs her business with change in mind Where Julie gathered research outside of customer interviews and what it revealed The silver lining of starting her brand during the peak of the pandemic Why Julie decided to offer both knitwear and cut & sew pieces in her brand Why Birdie & Claire’s first collection was more casual when the initial idea was for eventwear What Julie did to better understand the language of fashion The stereotypes about and the diversity amongst women age 50+ How Birdie & Claire supports Julie in her current stage of life The wisdom Julie has learned from older women People and resources mentioned in this episode: Birdie & Claire website Birdie & Claire Instagram Julie’s Email Wiser Than Me podcast Fashion Reimagined documentary Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
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  • How Customer Conversations Become Actionable and Empathetic Insights with Erin Cavanaugh of See ROSE Go
    In episode 106, Erin shares how conversations have shaped their brand and how she turns those insights into empathetic action. It was after decades in the industry at big-name brands like Nike, Converse, and Nordstrom that Erin and her co-founder realized just how hard it is for plus-size women to find clothes that fit after an elevator conversation with a co-worker. That conversation sparked others that began Erin and Yi’s entrepreneurial journey as the founders of See ROSE Go. Accomplished Chief Merchandising Officer with over 20 years of industry experience leading innovative strategies across fashion and retail, Erin’s career began as a Nordstrom buyer. It was with Nordstrom that Erin discovered her passion for enhancing the customer experience, through empathy and an in-depth understanding of the customer’s point of view. Nike Inc. recruited Erin to lead an Outlet division for Men’s, Women’s, and Kid’s Apparel and Accessories. She was quickly promoted to direct Men’s Apparel Merchandising for the Asia Pacific / China region. More recently, she drove significant growth in women’s apparel, optimizing product lines and achieving exceptional GM% as the Global Women’s Merchandising Director. In these roles, Erin remained consumer-centric, leading insight strategy and product creation to enhance the overall customer experience through superior products. In 2018, Erin co-founded See ROSE Go, a plus-size fashion brand with an ethos in intentional design, innovation, and mindful sustainability. Leading merchandising strategy, omni-channel distribution, and business development, Erin also successfully secured VC funding as a new founder with a newborn at home. In 2021, See ROSE Go received an honorable mention in Fast Company’s Innovation by Design Awards for the proprietary tech/lifestyle fabric, CoolROSE™. In 2023 Erin received a U.S. Patent for this fabric. CoolROSE™ was invented as a direct response to issues women deal with but seldom speak about - body heat, sweat, and pilling from friction between body parts. Erin and See ROSE Go have been recognized by Forbes, CBS Money, and WWD for challenging industry norms. She was recently featured with her Co-Founder, Yi Zhou, in Authority Magazine as female disruptors shaking up their industry. It is the See ROSE Go mission to see women embrace their power and “go”. To Erin, style isn’t just how a woman looks, it is how she moves and feels and the impact she makes while wearing See ROSE Go. Get to know more about Erin and See ROSE Go at, https://seerosego.com/blogs/meet-the-founders In this episode, you’ll learn: How co-founders Erin and Yi start and continue conversations with women in their target market How Erin organizes the insights from each conversation and breaks them down into actionable information How Erin’s Nike background gives her a performance-focused product perspective The market gap that See ROSE Go fills and the revelation that started it all The process of developing and patenting their CoolROSE fabric How Erin stays connected with the See ROSE Go community How Erin and Yi have funded the brand and why they’ve changed approaches over the years What Erin is most proud of People and resources mentioned in this episode: See ROSE Go website (Erin shared a 20% discount with How Fitting listeners! Use code SMILE.) See ROSE Go Instagram Erin’s LinkedIn Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.
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Sobre How Fitting: design a slow fashion business that fits

How Fitting® is the podcast for slow fashion designers who want to create clothing and grow a business that fits their customer, lifestyle, and values. In biweekly episodes, hear how relatable fashion entrepreneurs (the kind who run their businesses from kitchen tables and cutting tables, not boardroom tables) navigate the fashion industry with integrity and define success based on their own principles. In each conversation, host Alison Hoenes (a freelance women’s apparel patternmaker) explores the things that all slow fashion business owners experience: the vulnerability of launching something new, the deeply empathetic process of designing clothes that fit a niche market, the challenges of pursuing both financial and environmental sustainability, the late nights of reckoning with your values that make you consider shutting the whole thing down, and the rewarding moments that make it all worth it. In addition, hear from experienced fashion industry resources that are helping indie designers make a difference and a profit – like low MOQ factories, fashion marketing and business coaches, or sustainable fabric suppliers. How Fitting® offers validation that you are not alone in your fashion entrepreneurship experience, ideas to try on in your fashion business to create a better fit, and a curious look into how other slow fashion brands are making it work. How fitting is that?
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