How Fitting: design a slow fashion business that fits

• Becoming a Designer of Supply Chains with Emily Harris of Mrs. Emily

  Emily Harris started out as a designer of clothes, but recently, she says she’s become more of a designer of supply chains. Over the fifteen years since starting her brand Mrs. Emily, Emily has produced her signature elastic-waist skirts in different ways – sewing them herself to order, working with a seamstress to stock a retail location, and now working with a fair trade mill and sewing studio to produce inventory. Her product has gotten even more beautifully simple, but the logistics have gotten far more complex. In episode 122, Emily candidly shares how her target customer has grown as she and her business have, how her change in lifestyle required a change in manufacturing, and why play and personal style are necessities in her work and business. Emily is a fashion designer, wife, and mom based in Champaign, Illinois. She studied fashion design at Southern Illinois University as a newlywed, and after graduating, she and her husband moved to New York City, where she worked for bridal designer Amsale Aberra. In 2010, Emily launched her own brand as a way to grow her design career while staying present with her young family. After years of creating custom garments made to clients’ measurements, Emily developed a proprietary size chart and began manufacturing with small, family-run workshops in India and Bangladesh—workshops where she has personal relationships and deep trust. These teams produce extraordinary work and provide fair wages, healthcare, and childcare to their employees. Now, 15 years into her brand and 14 years into motherhood, Emily continues to design every piece from her home studio. Her business has been shaped by a desire to live fully in all her roles: as a mother, a wife, and a designer. This episode explores: Fitting the customer How her target customer has grown as Emily and her business have How Emily decides what skirts to offer each season How Emily balances the technical, quantitative feedback with personal, qualitative feedback as she designs The ways that Mrs. Emily products have been simplified – and the work that has gone into doing so Fitting the lifestyle The lifestyle that inspired her signature elastic-waist skirts How Mrs. Emily has changed as Emily’s daily lifestyle has changed over the years  Why Emily describes her role as being a designer of supply chains, not just a designer of clothes What kept Emily going when everything in her business felt heavy and stressful Fitting the values What made Emily look at her product more seriously The thing that really fuels inspiration Why fair trade manufacturing is so important to Emily Why play and personal style are necessities in Emily’s work and business People and resources mentioned in this episode: Mrs. Emily website Mrs. Emily Instagram Emily’s email Mrs. Emily LinkedIn Emily on How Fitting episode 9 Jackie of Motif Handmade on How Fitting episode 120 Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

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• Cutting Curves, Not Cutting Corners with Michelle Dwight of Aulieude

  Michelle Dwight has a notebook of what she calls weird and wonderful ideas. These ideas become convertible dresses and swimwear for curvy women. She started her brand, Aulieude, as a young designer wanting stylish, sustainable fashion. As her business has grown, she’s learned to apply her creativity to her business and not just her designs. As she’s grown too, she’s decided what things are and are not worth compromising. In episode 121, hear how the Aulieude customer has grown up as Michelle has, how Michelle’s lifestyle has played into her business decisions over the years, and why business values are extra important when you are ready to scale. As a girl, Michelle loved creating beauty from the found materials around her. Often shopping clothes to sew into something new and pattern making from intuition on her spotlight mannequin with A4 printer paper and sticky tape. She made platform shoes in woodwork, leather working, making corsetry, consistently fascinated by the construction of various mediums. Michelle would dress her sister and her friends up in her creations and emulate vogue editorial shoots with an old SLR camera and a vision. Aulieude was founded in 2017 by our then 23 year old Designer, Michelle Dwight, making dresses from her bedroom. After studying at Sydney’s Fashion Design Studio and working in the Fast fashion industry, Michelle grew tired of flimsy garments and wanted to craft quality fits that would be loved over a lifetime. Passionate about sustainability, she set out to create conscious clothing that didn’t compromise on style. In lieu of (‘Au Lieu De’) shapeless eco fashion on the market, Michelle took pride in carefully constructing flattering feminine silhouettes that celebrated a woman’s curves – designing adjustable and multiway pieces that tailor to the wearer’s unique shape and style. Gaining a loyal following in the Market stalls of Sydney and Melbourne, Aulieude transitioned to selling exclusively online. They have since proudly expanded their size range, introduced original prints and formal wear as well as their most recent category, Swim! Every Aulieude garment is pattern made by hand in Michelle’s Melbourne Studio by the designer herself. Aulieude samples are made for Michelle’s curvy body and she fits each creation on models of various sizes to make sure that the quality and fit of the pieces are absolutely perfect for you. Michelle, now 32, is continually inspired by the wonderful community of women Aulieude has garnered. Strong, caring women who own their femininity and deserve to be supported and empowered. Engaging with and serving this community brings so much joy and fulfilment that continues to inspire the collections to come. This episode explores: Fitting the customer Who Michelle designs for What Michelle learned about her customers at markets The new “risky” category that Aulieude recently added Why Alieude changed how its pieces are sized Fitting the lifestyle How much Michelle saved up to start Aulieude and fund her first production run  The big mistake Michelle made when she attended her first market How Michelle’s lifestyle has played into her business decisions The reason Michelle didn’t want to be the face of Aulieude initially and what changed her mind How Michelle has grown as her business has Fitting the values Why values are super important when you are ready to scale your business An aspect of sustainability that many fashion founders overlook Why Michelle travels to visit her factory (it is NOT to check in on production) People and resources mentioned in this episode: Aulieude website Aulieude Instagram Aulieude email Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

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• Why Handwoven Fabrics Are More Relevant And Easier For Independent Designers To Get Made Than Ever Before with Jackie Corlett of Motif Handmade

  In today’s world, technology has woven its way into nearly every aspect of our lives and work. The fashion industry is always looking for ways to make things faster and automate work that always used to be done by humans – but not Jackie. She’s been working with hand weavers in Bangladesh for over three decades and is more passionate about the future of fair trade, hand-crafted fabrics than ever. Jackie teaches designers how to design their own handwoven fabrics and helps them get their textiles made through her business Motif Handmade. In episode 120, Jackie shares how designing your own handwoven textiles is more accessible to you as an independent designer than you might realize, how she’s seen fair trade sourcing change lives, and the value that threads through all of Jackie’s work. Jackie Corlett is the founder of Motif Handmade, a Brit who swapped the rolling hills of England for decades in vibrant Bangladesh, and now calls the wide-open prairies of Illinois home. As a textile designer, Jackie’s lifelong passion is for handcrafted fabrics and the remarkable artisans who bring them to life. Over the years, she’s helped students, designers and brands weave artisanal goods into their collections, creating beauty with purpose. Today, through her course KIND FABRIC, Jackie’s mission is to empower designers with the skills and confidence to develop their own fair trade certified, custom fabrics and finished goods. She believes sourcing can be 100% transparent, giving you 100% peace of mind. From fibre to fabric to finished product, Jackie champions a world where creativity isn’t just about making things ... it’s about making a difference. This episode explores: Fitting the customer Why handwoven textiles are more accessible to you as an independent designer than you might realize The two big shifts that have accelerated the demand and accessibility of fair trade textiles over Jackie’s career Fitting the lifestyle What captured Jackie’s interest back in 1989 that started her on the path towards the work she is doing today How fair trade sourcing changes us as designers  How long it takes to design your own handwoven fabrics and get them made How the MOQs and cost of handwoven fabrics compare to other fabric options Fitting the values The thing that matters most to Jackie in her work Why creating products with integrity is easier now than ever before The ways that Fast Fashion mindsets creep into our work The real impact of fair trade People and resources mentioned in this episode: Motif Handmade website Motif Handmade Instagram Jackie’s email Jackie’s LinkedIn Kind Fabric course Previous How Fitting guests who use Motif fabrics in their collection: Mrs. Emily and Glean & Grace Cyclo recycled fiber yarns Plaidmaker plaid design tool Future Fabrics Expo Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

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• Recreating the Luxury & Legacy of Vintage Textiles with Christine Lindebak of Lindy Lindy

  Luxury doesn’t always look like designer clothes, high heels, and a “dream” fashion job in NYC. Sometimes it looks more like quiet morning moments getting ready for a big day, hand-stitched embroidery on a vintage table linen, and barefoot commutes to a home office in a Spanish apartment. Christine Lindebak has always appreciated these small details. With her bridal loungewear brand, Lindy Lindy, she has leaned into these details even more. Each piece is crafted using vintage textiles that share a luxurious story of their own. In episode 119, hear why her lounge and sleepwear designs were a perfect fit for brides, how Christine’s identity and lifestyle massively changed when she quit corporate, and the ways that Christine has considered scaling that align with her values. Christine Lindebak is a fashion industry veteran, having worked for Emilio Pucci, Mulberry, and Alexis Bittar. She is the founder of Lindy Lindy, creating bespoke homewear from vintage Spanish linens for brides seeking one-of-a-kind getting-ready attire. Christine is also the force behind Sewing and the City, selling fashion sewing patterns online and in shops around the globe and inspiring people of all ages to sew their own clothes. This episode explores: Fitting the customer Why the bridal loungewear market organically fit Lindy Lindy How Lindy Lindy’s niche made marketing easier for Christine How Lindy Lindy pieces are sized Christine’s approach to pricing her pieces Fitting the lifestyle How Christine landed her first wholesale partnership Why Christine quit her “dream” career in luxury retail How Christine’s identity and lifestyle massively changed when she quit corporate Fitting the values The reason behind Christine’s premium sewing construction choices How the textiles themselves shape Lindy Lindy designs How Christine’s values play out in the day to day operations of Lindy Lindy The ways that Christine has considered scaling that fit her values People and resources mentioned in this episode: Lindy Lindy website Lindy Lindy Instagram Sewing In The City website Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

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• Designing A Life & Business You Love (Even Through Change, Loss, and Challenges) with Doug Phillips and Liz DeBraber of Conscious Clothing

  Rose and Doug Phillips asked: “how can we spend every day, together, doing what we love?” Their answer was Conscious Clothing. For two decades they built their business on this premise - even building the gorgeous, sun-filled Michigan studio where their team of ten designs and makes each piece of organic and natural fiber clothing.  Things haven’t always been dreamy, though. As the brand grew, work started to creep into the weekends. The pandemic hit. Then Doug lost his life and business partner. But, the heartfelt vision for Conscious Clothing remained. In this interview, Doug and General Manager Liz DeBraber share how they’re intentionally restructuring the business for the sake of themselves, their team, and their customers. Doug Phillips is the owner of Conscious Clothing, an organic and natural fiber clothing company based in the Grand Rapids Michigan area. While navigating the challenges of designing and manufacturing in the US for over 23 years against a flood of cheap clothing imports, a mission was born. Exemplifying how a better way is possible by supporting local and organic is better for people and the planet. Doug hopes everyone realizes their power to create change with the purchase power they have and the brands they choose to support. This episode explores: Fitting the customer How Liz is completely revamping Conscious Clothing’s pattern library to better fit their customers The process behind extending their sizing from XS-XL to XS-6X.  How their small team things about customer service Fitting the lifestyle How founders Doug and Rose built the business from the ground up to realize the life they wanted together What they changed to keep the growing business from taking over their life How a years-long season of grief forced Doug to make big changes in the business Why sustainability is just as much about the lifestyle of the team than it is about the products they are making How they are balancing R&D with production Fitting the values Why organic and natural fibers and made-in-USA production are important to Conscious Clothing How the industry and consumer values about organic clothing has changed over the 20+ years they’ve been in business Why Doug is happy that Conscious Clothing is not as unique as it once was People and resources mentioned in this episode: Conscious Clothing website Conscious Clothing Instagram Fox fiber® - breeder and grower of organic, naturally colored cotton Do you want fashion business tips and resources like this sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for the How Fitting newsletter to receive new podcast episodes plus daily content on creating fashion that fits your customer, lifestyle, and values.

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