A glimpse into everything behind world of competition climbing.Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing...
Ep 34: Rodrigo Hanada - From CHUBBY to World Cup Climber?!
Rodrigo is a boulder & lead climber from team Brazil. He actually started climbing fairly recently in 2018, but since then has been a 2x south american cup winner and is working his way up the ranks on the world cup circuit! In this episode, we talk about what makes training and climbing in Brazil difficult, how he feels like a “weaker” climber due to starting out as a chubbier kid, and mindset tips he uses while competing.Guest links:Rodrigo’s InstagramReference links:Brazilian Hold Brand - CruxNight Moves - Outdoor Brazilian ClimbingThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:28 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:29 - Starting climbing only 8 years ago!7:24 - How to mentally recover from knee injury10:38 - The importance of hold and movement exposure13:57 - Living in Australia16:38 - Competing in Prague with a knee brace21:45 - The difficulties of climbing hard in South America25:31 - Brazil climber funding30:19 - Climbing scene in Brazil36:15 - Thoughts on the upcoming 2025 Brazil WC39:27 - Mindset and overcoming being a "weaker" climber48:43 - Once a fat kid, always a fat kid51:47 - Discord Q: Top 3 slab tips56:13 - Discord Q: Thoughts on limiting country participation? Does it actually help smaller nations?1:02:20 - Discord Q: Outdoor climbing projects in Brazil?1:05:19 - S/O to South American climbers and where to find Rodrigo
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Ep 33: Niki & Jake - Routesetting + Hold HOT TAKES
Niklas Wiechmann and Jake Mason are routesetters from "Another Setting Podcast" but you may already be familiar with them because Niki was my FIRST ever podcast guest and you are probably familiar with Jake from the Bouldering Bobats. In this episode, we absolutely TRASH US gym hold selection and setting, they give their opinions on worldwide setting styles, comp formats, and moves to LEAVE BEHIND in 2024, and we discuss freelance vs world cup routesetter pay.Guest links:“Another Setting Podcast”Niki’s YoutubeJake’s YoutubeNiki’s InstagramJake’s InstagramReference links:The hold that doesn’t need to existRoutesetting workshops through Frankenjura AcademyDockmasters 2025 - JanuaryStudiobloc masters 2025 - MarchQuarrymanThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:33 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:29 - Stretching!5:36 - The bromance + getting into setting10:23 - Settings trends in each country15:10 - TRASHING hold selection in US gyms24:54 - Lack of style in world cups32:26 - Setting for Brawl on the Wall42:28 - Fun experimental comp formats48:08 - Niki's setting future + Frankenjura academy52:58 - How will setting innovate?57:12 - STOP setting these moves and START setting these!1:01:41 - World Cup setter dreams or freelancing + pay1:09:04 - Another Setting Podcast1:11:57 - Discord Q: Why is it rare to find footwork-intensive climbs in gyms?1:14:53 - Discord Q: How important is hold selection in order to force a move?1:19:27 - Discord Q: What is the "jug ladder" of parkour routes?1:23:47 - Words of widsom + Where to find Niki and Jake
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Ep 32: Andy McVittie - Evolution of Climbing Injuries in Competition
Andy is a climbing PT from Process Physiotherapy. He has been climbing for over 30 years, has coached in the past, and over time has noticed climbing injuries change as the style of climbing has evolved in the competition scene. In this episode, we'll debunk some training and PT myths, talk about the differences between male and female climbers and the types of injuries they face, and we’ll hear about why he thinks fingers are strong enough.Guest links:WebsiteInstagramReference links:Frontiers | Top of the podium, at what cost? injuries in female international elite climbersPainfully ignorant? Impact of gender and aim of training on injuries in climbing | BMJ Open Sport & Exercise MedicineOlympic competition climbing: the beginning of a new era-a narrative review - PubMedDavid Barrans IFSC HistoryThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:17 - Holidays4:22 - Getting into climbing, coaching, PT11:31 - Evolution of climbing injuries over time19:24 - Is there any competition move that's too dangerous?26:59 - Shoulders, hanging and catching one arm moves36:11 - Fingers are strong enough!!40:55 - World Cup climbers using KT tape, metal stickers, ice packs51:14 - MYTH: Climbing ability declines as you age1:03:00 - MYTH: Injuries happen from specific occurrences1:07:14 - How injuries show up differently between male and female climbers1:17:56 - Period cycles and injury1:27:54 - DISCORD Q: How to deal with DIP issues/synovitis?1:34:20 - Discord Q: How should an experienced climber integrate more training?1:38:29 - A PT's new years resolution1:40:09 - Closing thoughts + where to find Andy
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Ep 31: Oceana Mackenzie - Shingles at the Olympics?!
"She goes by Oce" is a boulder and lead climber from Australia! She's had an amazing 2024 season with her first world cup boulder medal in Prague, and also recently competed in her 2nd Olympics. In this episode, we'll learn about how she battled THREE health issues while competing in the Paris olympics, how Paris compared to Tokyo, her training with team Switzerland and making lead climbing gains, and her (thankfully far in the future) plans for retirement.Guest links:InstagramTiktokReference links:Anime RecommendationK-drama RecommendationThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:19 - MadRock Shoutout!!2:06 - Post-season break4:09 - Being away from home for 6 months/Switzerland coaching9:18 - Starting out climbing with the family12:24 - Birth order stereotypes15:16 - Shingles in Paris19:23 - Meeting other Olympians but not Raygun21:13 - How Olympic finals felt compared to qualis27:06 - Comparing Paris to Tokyo Olympics36:12 - Being emotional on camera38:44 - Top athletes being gone from 2024 WC season40:17 - Making lead climbing gains45:18 - Winning her first WC medal51:24 - Competition schedule preference54:59 - Brisbane Olympics and future retirement plans57:52 - Discord Q: how do you navigate a vegan diet while traveling for comps59:09- Weeb/koreaboo?1:03:01 - Discord Q: Could you imagine doing a Swiss bouldering comp next year?1:04:47 - Discord Q: Do you have any interesting experiences in Japan?1:06:30 - Discord Q: Are Australian gyms too focused on commercial climbing?1:09:49 - Traveling with her sister1:11:53 - Where to find Oce
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Ep 30: Tom Greenall - Ex-GB Head Coach Facing Public Backlash
Tom is team GB’s ex-head coach! He personally coached Shauna Coxsey into getting her Tokyo Olympic ticket and has worked with the rest of team GB up until he left the national team earlier this year in April. In this episode, we'll learn about why he’s banned from the USA, the strategy for getting Shauna to qualify for the Olympics, and the politics and public backlash he faced working in the circuit that led to his eventual resignation.There is an EXTRA FULL-LENGTH EPISODE available with Tom on Patreon available to members only: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastGuest links:InstagramEmailReference links:Wedge ClimbingJanja Unfiltered Period TalkLearn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastOr, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbingTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro/Recovering from knee surgery5:49 - Starting climbing + competing + coaching10:20 - How he got BANNED from the USA13:18 - How to get into coaching now18:57 - Thoughts on Instagram coaching + current training philosophies25:50 - Coaching Shauna Coxsey into the Olympics34:15 - Why Team GB found such great form in 202437:12 - What makes Toby and Erin stand out from the rest39:12 - Difference between coaching individually vs acting as head coach40:56 - How GB training camps work44:30 - Athlete consistency during comps + period cycles53:45 - Why he quit as head coach of GB1:01:32 - Dealing with a toxic climbing community1:08:38 - The most difficult parts of coaching1:10:56 - Favorite/least favorite travel moments on the circuit1:14:59 - Recommendation to other coaches on stress management1:17:25 - The future of comp climbing + athlete money1:22:45 - "Coaching people to their own individual Olympics"1:26:45 - Tom's future1:28:22 - Discord Q: Does cohesion in a national team make a difference?1:30:48 - Discord Q: Did individual coaching ever interfere with your work as national team coach?1:32:54 - Final thoughts + where to find Tom
A glimpse into everything behind world of competition climbing.Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing sport!For further discussion, check out the comp climbing Discord at https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp.
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